Detours to Machu Picchu

© Alisa Clickenger / RumBum.com

I was devastated. I had just landed in South America and heard the news: the Peruvian government announced that Machu Picchu would be closed for several months due to landslides. I began to cry. There were about five “must see” places for me on this trip from North to South America, and Machu Picchu was at the top of the list.

As fate would have it, after a complicated series of events that included unexpectedly falling in love with Colombia, an illness in Ecuador, and then breaking my hand in Peru, I managed to be in Cuzco at the very day Machu Picchu reopened. Train tickets were scarce, accommodations were few, and tourist information was contradictory. My original plan to ride the motorbike to Ollantaytambo and take the train had evaporated with my crash and subsequent broken hand, so I did what all the non-motorbikers do and I booked a tour.

Unfortunately, the only tour I could get was a combination hiking and van tour. It cost $185 US and I would have to hike for a half day in, and a half day out. Then, more landslides closed the road we were to take in the van, so an extra day of walking was added to the tour. Nothing else to do, we started in, only to find that our tour guide did not plan properly, and there was no food available for us after 8 hours of hiking. The only solution was to hike another 4 hours to Aguas Calientes and eat there.

After a long day in, everyone on the tour was happy to see the hotel, which was positioned on the edge of the trail we would take to hike in to the ruins. Unfortunately, my hotel room was infested with ants. When I asked the hotel for another room, I was told they were full, and they suggested since the ants were only on one wall, that I should sleep in the bed against the other wall. The final straw came when I went to use the bathroom: there was no paper. I went down to the front lobby to ask for some, and was informed that it did not come in on the train so there was none available. When I asked about the sanitary paper on the shelf behind the counter, I was informed that was for sale and I could purchase it if I cared to.

The next morning, I rejoined the tour at 4:00 a.m. at the entrace into the ruins, and spent of the day touring the ancient ruins and walking the spectacular grounds. It was certainly as spectacular as all the pictures I'd ever seen, majestic in the mountain mists. I was even able to climb Waynu Picchu with my broken hand. After climbing, I looked down onto the majesty of the vast Machu Picchu mountainside, and took it all in.

After nine hours spent exploring the ruins, I was on scenic overload and ready to descend back down to Aguas Calientes. I was happy to have seen Machu Picchu, but the experience was bittersweet. I had wanted to see this Peruvian marvel my whole life, but the hassles involved with getting there unfortunately left more of an impression on me than the ancient city did. I only hope that in time the memory of the hassles fades and I am only left with the awe of this magnificent city.